A YEAR ON, the STORY so FAR

A year ago today my husband left for work and I was left alone for the first time in what was to be my new home for the coming years. It felt strange. It almost felt like I was on holiday, especially as I looked out I was seeing a beautiful blue swimming pool. However, a reality came over me as I realised this was to be my life. I may look out over the pool but I also had to get over the holiday feeling and start living this new life.

So as I ventured outside the apartment the temptation to drop white pebbles was high in my mind. I wasn't sure I'd find my way back to the apartment never mind what might happen when I left the complex. But on I went. Soon all worries of getting home vanished as I had to concentrate all my energies on crossing the road. I would worry about getting home later. As I was attempting to cross 10 lanes, just to get to my local coffee shop, I was bewildered by all the noise, all the chaos and the fact that although the green man was clearly visible traffic was still coming in all directions, motorcycles and bikes were even heading right towards me. Safely tucked into a crowd of locals I made it across.

One year on, I barely hear the horns beeping, and no longer jump out of my skin every time one beeps, in fact I barely react. I swerve in and out of the traffic, around buses u-turning and cars double u-turning without a second thought. Well most of the time anyway!

On the way back I decide to try and buy some fruit and veg from the local wet market. Here there was a total assault on all my senses. Noisy, very, but it was the unfamiliar smells, not all pleasant, the sight of live frogs and turtles in tanks, fish I had never seen, and veg I didn't know what I needed to do with it to make it edible. Fortunately I am not at all squeamish and  managed to get around the market with no problems. With no Chinese and the stall holders having no English there was a bit of pointing and smiling going on. But once again I was successful and even came home with a few free samples.

One year on the man at the fruit and veg stall is helping me with my Chinese, I know nearly all the fruit and veg now, in return I help him with the English words. Win, win. He also gets me things I ask for, but keeps getting them, this is the reason I have jars of pickled beetroot to last me for a year! I don't like not to buy it when he has gone to the trouble of tracking it down. Hoping it will go out of season soon. He also gives me tips on how to cook some of these unusual veg. I now enjoy my trips to the wet market.

The first week I arrived and found I could navigate my way around I went to a coffee morning arranged by Brits Abroad. Here I met Sandra. It was a good day. Sandra and her husband Melvyn have become very good friends, and we have had lots of good nights with them. Later in the year I met Leslie, a fellow Scot, very soon we were introduced to her husband Alasdair and again we had found more good friends to enjoy our time in Shanghai with. Moira and Alastair also found their way into our lives, again fellow Scots. We have been so lucky to find such great friends here. I have a good network of wonderful women who make my stay here so easy.

So life here is good. Our local just happens to be the highest bar in the world, cocktails don't come cheap, but on the plus side our local restaurant is fantastic. On friday night 11 of us ate there for 1400rmb, so about £140 including drinks. Not bad. For the first time I booked the table in Chinese, so it was a great step forward. My language skills are improving, getting taxis, ordering food and drink, buying clothes and shoes all within my means! This is all thanks to YoYo my language teacher. She never tires of my never ending requests for questions out with the programme. She is always smiling and so very patient. In return I do my homework and try so hard to make her proud of me.

So a big thank you to everyone out there who patiently listens to my attempts at Chinese and encourages me. From the staff at the coffee shop, my maid, my driver, yes I am spoiled, my dry cleaner and my husband's colleagues who have helped make the journey a smooth one. I cannot thank them enough. We now enjoy lots of fun nights out with them. Jack, my driver has been especially kind. Making sure I'm safe, getting me to where I need to be, opening the car door, which I have to say takes a bit of getting used to, for waiting for me with an umbrella to get me to the car dry and for carrying my shopping to the lift. He is the best. I am wondering how I can arrange for him to go back with me when the time comes! 

So the first year has been good. Lots of new experiences, mostly good. I have mastered chopsticks, I realise I don't mind eating jelly fish, I do mind eating sea cucumber. I love sushi, especially sea urchin, however I do not like congee, a type of porridge made with rice. I can eat prawns including the shells, but still prefer shell off, and will never be able to spit out shells and bones onto the table!  But I am giving it all my best shot, apart from the spitting that is! However I will never, ever put stinky tofu in my mouth. I cannot even bear the smell of it. On the other side a salted duck egg is not so bad.

On the negative side I miss my family and friends, Skype helps, but it's not the same as hugs and kisses from Daisy and Archie. This week I go home for what will be my 4th visit in the year, so not so bad. I am looking forward to all those hugs, lots to catch up on.

 I also want to say thanks to all the people at home, family and friends who always welcome me back, to those who make the trips to visit us wherever we are in the world and for keeping in touch with news form home. It makes it all so much easier. Thanks.

So now lets see what another year in Shanghai can offer.

HUMMUS

Hummus is something which features regularly in our fridge. It's the ideal snack to pull out, and if there is some pita bread around you have an instant nibble. We often enjoy it while dinner is in the oven, something to take the edge off while you wait to eat.

Why do I like it so much? Quite simply it is so simple and quick to make. My husband can call to say he is bringing someone home and I can have it ready by the time they walk through the door. Just leaving time to open a bottle and get the glasses out of the cupboard. Makes me look like a devoted wife every time!

All it calls for is a tin of chickpeas, garlic, lemon juice, sesame paste, olive oil and seasoning. Quite simply it is all tipped into the processor and hey presto there you have it. It can be as smooth or chunky as you wish. If you don't like the sesame paste you can add pesto or a couple of pieces of peppers taken from a jar. A bit of chilli, or cumin can spice it up a bit.

A couple of weeks ago my husband announced, as he was reading the latest review from a food writer, that the best hummus should be made with dried, soaked chickpeas and that they should be skinned after cooking! Oh right I thought I must remember that, not!

However a few weeks later while I was making some hummus, this time I was organised and the peas had been soaking overnight. Yes, sometimes I do get myself organised and use the dried pea. As I boiled them I noticed they were slipping out of their skins. Then as I drained them a few more started to lose their skins. Okay I thought to myself, let's just put this theory to the test. After a quick shake in the strainer which facilitated a few more separating, I set to work. I really had just to separate the two things, the skins and the pea. It wasn't difficult but it was boring and time consuming. Eventually I had completed the task and I had a bowl of each.

So into the blender with everything a quick blitz, a check for seasoning and I was done. It had taken me way longer than usual, now to see if it was worth it. I have to say the finished result was excellent. It produced a lovely creamy texture, lighter than usual. Would I be doing this every time? Answer is no. Will I do it again ? Possibly. And if I ever have a Giles Coren or A.A Gill  popping in for drinks then I will go that extra mile to please. LOL. But give it a try even if it's only once, just to see the results.

CELEBRATING in SHANGHAI

Last week was my birthday, or birthweek as it turned out! It coincided with Shanghai restaurant week, hence the over indulgence. I love birthdays, not always the number involved, but it is a great time to celebrate with no guilt feelings.

So what is restaurant week? It happens twice a year when restaurants in the city all do a 248rmb, around £25 a head menu. Lots of high end, ie: very expensive places take part, giving you the opportunity to test them out. It is difficult to secure bookings, but luckily I have a few friend who managed between them to make sure my birthday was very special.
First night we went to Kafer. This is a modern German restaurant sitting on the Huangpu river. The views across to the Bund were amazing, the staff were excellent and the food matched both of them.

A starter of Foie Gras Brulee sparked my imagination and was a must. It did not disappoint. A delicious  piece of Foie Gras topped with spun sugar arrived. It was so good. As was the seafood stew, and dessert of Brie de Meaux with honey and shaved truffle. When my husband commented that his apple mash was delicious an extra side was brought. A nice touch.This was not what we had expected of a "Cheap Deal"It will certainly now be on our special restaurant list.

The following night saw us in Flair. This has the highest outdoor terrace in Shanghai. Wow, views to die for. Felt as if I could have reached out and touched The Pearl Tower.

Here we ate sushi/tapas selection. Everything tasted good. I liked the fact that they serve small plate, tapas style, but will keep them coming as long as you order. A very dry martini helped wash everything down nicely. It was served in a lounge bar, on nice comfy sofas. I was so happy. It was just my husband and myself tonight. This was not one of the restaurants participating in the offer, but as this was the actual date of my birthday, we had to celebrate. This was an ideal place to do it. They do offer a set price menu, including drinks all the year round.

Next night there was a hiatus in the celebrations. A quiet supper of poached eggs on toast, eaten from a tray watching TV. Bliss. We weren't exactly in pj's and slippers but relaxed at home. A light supper was the order of the day as we still had a couple of night in front of us.

This was the night I was really looking forward to. Jason Atherton, a British chef, has recently opened here in Shanghai and I have been waiting to try it out. Table NO.1 has been getting great reviews. Could it live up to them?

This is a stylish hip restaurant, decorated with lots of concrete and steel. Lots of iconic pieces of furniture are dotted round. I really loved the decor.

We were a party of six and were shown to a private room. With the large glass doors we didn't feel at all cut off from the main dining room, in fact we felt a bit special. 

We all ordered from a tempting array of dishes and they all proved successful. I started with a grits and  shredded duck, topped with poached egg and shavings of truffle. Mmm! Sea bass for mains was perfectly cooked and the piece de resistance was the cookies and cream dessert. A great fun end to what had been a great night. Food, wine and company first class. What more can you ask for.

A trip back across the river on the ferry made a wonderful end to a wonderful night.

Last night of celebrations saw us heading with 2 good friends to The Grill Room. A restaurant in the Jumeirah Hotel. 

This was probably the least favourite of the week. Food was good, not excellent, but company fantastic so it didn't matter quite as much. Service was also slow and had to repeatedly ask for wine. Our starters were served before the wine arrived.

As it is a grill room famous for it's steaks that was the choice of three of us. But I am not really a steak eater so I ordered the cod. It was cooked well and I enjoyed it. Steaks for some reason has been flattened out, why? There is no need to do this to a good steak. Everything was eaten and deemed average. Desserts too not what we expected. So not a disaster but below our expectations.

But as I said we were with great company so the night out was not at all spoiled.

A fantastic birthday week, and a big thanks to all who thought of me and included us in their discovery of new places for us to eat in Shanghai.

This week? Well salads and water. lol. Well worth it though. I so enjoyed the experience. 

Thankfully birthdays come once a year, however restaurant week happens twice a year. think I should get into training for next round in October.

SHANGHAI SEASONS

Everything in Shanghai has a season. At the moment it is the strawberry season. Yes, I know it seems strange to have an abundance of strawberries in the markets at this time of year. I always think of strawberries as a summer treat, but of course now in UK they can be eaten all the year round. Not a necessarily good thing. I find they can often be tasteless, not the delicious sweet strawberries I remember as a child.

Here they are large and so sweet, "tian" as they say here. I have to say I have been buying a lot of them. Partly because I know that in a few weeks time they will disappear from the market and it will be January next year before I see them again.

Sadly strawberries don't freeze so well, so next best thing I cooked them down with a bit of sugar, then sieved out all the seeds and froze as a puree to pour over ice cream or over anything you fancy really. So there will always be a hint of summer fruit in the freezer. 

I also decided to make jam.

Another way to prolong the delicious flavour. I am a strawberry person, my husband prefers raspberries, but alas have never seen a fresh raspberry on sale here. 

So with equal amounts of strawberry to sugar, 1 kilo this time, and the juice of half a lemon I set to 

work. It is such an easy thing to make.

Put all the ingredients int a large pan and slowly dissolve the sugar. When it is dissolved bring to the boil and boil until temp reaches 240 degrees. Then is should be just right. Add to sterilised jars, seal and cool. That is all there is to it.

So I can now enjoy my jam on my toast. Although haven given away some I really must get another couple of batches made before they disappear.

My mouth is watering seeing the pictures. Think I'll go and pop a piece of toast into the toaster as soon as I've finished this blog.

Here is another delicious strawberry treat. Recipe can be found here http://thecelticcook.blogspot.co.uk/search?q=strawberry+sponge

So have fun with strawberries whenever they are in season, wherever you are.

A WALK in the PARK

As last week was a holiday week here in Shanghai, New Year or Spring Holiday as it is called, it seemed a good time for my husband and I to see some of the places in the city we had yet to explore. Usually we only have weekends to do things together, and somehow we never seem to get around to doing the stuff we intend to do.

Century Park is not too far from us. As our driver was also on holiday we took the subway and three stops later we were at the park. The subway here is excellent. Clean, safe and very cheap. 20p for a single journey. Announcements are in English and all ticket machines have the option of English language. Which is just as well or we would be in trouble.

The first tree to bloom in Spring here is the plum tree, and I had read that there were 7,000 plum trees in various stages of blooming in the park. So a visit was a must. I have to say we did attempt a visit in the summer but the heat and humidity cut it short.

As we arrived at the gate there was the usual haul of people peddling their wares. Balloon sellers, kite sellers, people selling all kinds of Chinese paraphenalia and of course the street food sellers. I have yet to eat food sold from a BBQ perched on the back of a bike, although the smell is tempting, the origin of the meat and the time it has been lying around has prevented me from doing so. However the lady selling toffee covered strawberries and mandarin segments dew me in. Strawberries covered in toffee on a kebab stick, mmm! They were delicious.

So here we were at last in a huge open park in the middle of Shanghai. It has a large lake in the middle, and it was busy with families walking, groups of people taking photographs, and kids enjoying a day out in the sun.

It was really nice walking around and looking at all the trees, all at various stages of blooming, I think if we had waited a week there would have been a better display. As we wandered down to the lake there was a sharp reminder that spring is still a bit away. There was a biting cold wind coming from the water. We quickly found a cafe where we could warm up with a cup of coffee. I was extremely confused by a certain item on the menu, and I'm sure you will be too. Let me know if you have an idea as to what it might be lol.

Thankfully warmer we left the lake and headed back into the park and as usual we can't believe how lucky we are to have these opportunities open to us. We appeared to be the only Westerners around that day but still felt perfectly at ease and comfortable wandering around.

We stumbled upon a walled garden with beautifully cultivated trees. Not small enough to be bonsai, but in shape and form they reminded me of them. They were amazing. Each one more beautiful than the next. Obviously a lot of care and attention goes into keeping this part of the park. I loved it so much I decide that is the type of garden I want, with a few additions of course.

So a nice walk in the park and another to do thing in Shanghai done. It's amazing that in a city of 24,000,000 people we are 10 minutes away from large open spaces where you feel a million miles away from the hustle and bustle of city living. Plan to go again before the summer heat arrives and we have to stay within a few minutes walk of A/C.

So once again Shanghai meets our expectations. The people we came across were friendly, happy at our attempts at their language, and of course not a bit of rubbish lying around anywhere, partly because of the armies of people cleaning up, but also because of people respecting what they have. A lesson to be learned I think.

CHINESE NEW YEAR

The build up to the Chinese New Year started several weeks ago. Shops started to get busier, items started to be sold in larger packets. The 1kg flour was now in 5kg packs and rice was being sold in bags I wouldn't even been able to lift. Countdown had begun.

Then there were the items which appeared that I had never seen before, and didn't really know what I would do with them. Pig faces, yes faces! all sorts of dried duck, dried fish, sausages and unknowns. It was so much fun going round the supermarket. It was noisy, lively and full of mysterious produce. A foodie heaven.

Why does this remind me of the story "Three Little Pigs"?

There are so many traditions to be followed, all of them new to us. It seemed we had to buy gifts for all my husbands managers, and give a "hong bao" red envelope, with a 13th month salary in it to my "ayi" maid, and to my driver. This was to be given with the greeting "Gong xi fa cai" which means I wish a wealthy year for you. Everyone seemed happy with the offerings and we didn't seem to break any traditions.

Felt a bit like Christmas with all the gift bags. Everything has to be red, you should also wear red underwear. What luck that will bring I'm not sure but I hedged my bets and now wait with baited breath, lol.

On Friday afternoon businesses started closing up as they would now travel to visit family. Traditionally everyone goes home for this holiday. For many people this will be their only trip home in a year. For many it will be a time to be reunited with their children who are often left with grandparents to allow them to work in a city.  It was reported that some 300,000,000 people were on the move. Can't even imagine it. However Shanghai felt so quiet, so deserted. It was a strange feeling.

Here I am in Marks and Spencer coffee shop on New Years eve. Felt very lonely.

On New Years eve, as soon as darkness fell, around 6-00pm, the fireworks began. Slowly at first but by midnight all hell was let loose. I have never seen, or heard, fireworks like it. As we stood on our balcony they were going off all around, and mostly below us. They continued throughout the night. At 8-00am I was awoken by loud bangs as they started off again. The reason behind them is to ward off evil spirits. I think they are well and truly warded off. As I write this there are still fireworks going off and apparently Thursday night will be the biggest night of all as it is a special day on the lunar calendar. Can't wait to see them. Then hopefully calm will return. 

So happy to have been able to enjoy a real Chinese New Year. The traditions are fascinating, foods on offer amazing and the whole thing a wonderful experience. I feel very fortunate to have been able to be part of the celebration. I will never forget it.

However I look forward to normality returning. To people returning to the city and to my life going back to what is my normal Shanghai life.

I'll finish by saying

Xin nian kuaile, gong xi fa cai.

So basically Happy New Year, a wealthy year for you.

BURNS' SUPPER ( PART 2)

Friday night was a wonderful night. Almost 200 people joined the party and sang, danced, ate and drank in celebration of Robert Burns. Fun was the name of the day, and Talisker Whisky the drink of the night, thanks to Diagio's kind sponsorship.

The usual speeches were made, but with a difference. Tam o'Shanter eloquently recited by Will Clem, accompanied by a group of children acting out the story. Perfect no, but fun, oh yes. It was to set the scene for the rest of the night. The children were fantastic. Great to see children far away from home still learning about Burns, and it seems enjoying it.

Speeches were kept short. As we had a large non Scot participation we decided not to overwhelm with long speeches and incomprehensible language. I think we managed the first, but the second not so well. Scots, with alcohol, at the best times can be incomprehensible, throw Burns into the mix and you can understand why we failed on the second count.

My husband toasted "The Lassies" and did it very well. A few jokes, not too derogatory, leaving us lassies feeling good about ourselves. In response to his toast a small play was performed where Rab finds himself at the pearly gates, and much to his horror finds God a woman. That was me! As Rab had written "her prentice hand she tried on man, and then she made the lassies oh". So really he shouldn't have been so surprised. A bit of fun for all.

The haggis was piped in, duly toasted and enjoyed, I think by almost everyone. Meal over time for dancing.

For anyone who has done Scottish Country Dancing will appreciate what a work out it can be. Our poor unsuspecting friend, English I have to add, was surprised by the physical nature of the evening. But with good humour, a bit of cajoling he was soon joining in.

When one man lifted a chair to his shoulder and played it as if it was a bagpipe, it was only a few minutes before at least 50 grown men were marching round the room piping there hearts out. The Burns' Supper virgins were once again stunned at the way in which we Scots find to enjoy ourselves.

People dug deep for raffle, as Scots do, and money raised will go to help sport for under privileged kids here in Shanghai, a charity Scots in Shanghai support, and with the help of Ainsley Mann, a lot of kids have been given the opportunity to participate in sports who otherwise would not have been given the chance. Good to give a bit back..

A group of Chinese sang Auld Lang Syne in Mandarin, it was beautiful. When Burns penned these words he could never have comprehended of the miles this song would travel, and of it's beauty even in a language other than his mother tongue. I wonder in just how many countries and languages this song has been sung, not only over the past weekend but over the years since he wrote it.

1-00am came, people started drifting off. It was obvious everyone had enjoyed the evening. As it was a bit off piste compared to a traditional Burns' Supper we wondered what the Scots amongst us thought. Two remarks made me realise we had got it right. The first one being "Burns would have loved it" and the second being "It was like good friends getting together and putting on a Burns' Supper in the town hall" Happy with the remarks, I made my weary way home ready to it all the following night. It would be quite different, more formal as it was British Chamber hosting. However I knew I would also enjoy this as there is room for both. Now all I had to do was rest myself in preparation for doing it all again.

Well done everyone for making this an event to look forward to in Shanghai. See you all next year.