SUMMER'S END

As the long hot summer days draw to an end, and we wave goodbye to the last of our visitors of 2013, we are left with a lot of happy "Shanghai" memories. Of days spent in the pool with Daisy and Archie, of drinking cocktails across the city with our more mature visitors, of wandering through markets, making our way up high buildings but most of all connecting with friends and family.

In this photo my friend of 20 years, Kath, enjoys a shot in the Ice Bar of one of our favourite restaurants. 

Here we are enjoying happy hour at Isola, for me the best happy hour in Shanghia. Free flow Prossecco and lots of canapes, all for 88rmb, or just under £9.00 and lasting for 2 hours, with one on the most amazing views you can't beat it. 

My brother and sister in law concentrating very hard on a menu, or possibly a drinks list! As they had only 4 days with us it was a whirlwind tour of the Shanghai sights. At the end all four of us were exhausted, but happy.

Graeme and Carole who were the last of our summer visitors, and our oldest friends. Not in years, but in the length of time we have known them. My husband and Graeme have been friends for almost 50 years, and as couple we have been friends for 36 years, not bad! We had a wonderful time with them As you can imagine a lot of catching up and reminiscing, well it's what you do when you are getting older. Happy to report the years haven't changed them one bit.

It is always good to be able to share our lives with others. It may seem to them that life here is one big round of eating, drinking and generally having fun, I can say, that although that is a part of Shanghai living, there is also the mundane everyday things that go on wherever you are, but also there are the difficulties with language, which can at times make the simplest things difficult, and of course the very fact we are so far from family and friends. I am not complaining, but feel the need to point out there are drawbacks as well as pluses.

It was great seeing friends but the highlight of the year would be the arrival of my daughter, her husband and my two little grandchildren. We worried about the long journey they were undertaking, needlessly as it happens, they ran into our arms with huge smiles on their faces.

Mum and Dad on the other hand, although smiling, probably had the harder journey. But they were here and for the next two weeks we had a lot of fun.

Only issue was that they arrived during the hottest summer Shanghai had experienced for 130 years. With temperatures soaring into the mid 40's we were never so happy as to have A/C in the apartment. It worked overtime this summer.

But time in the pool, and visits to buildings with A/C, and taking even short journeys in the air conditioned car helped a bit. Archie was delighted to be able to swim when it was dark!

It was so much fun watching Miss Daisy look completely at home, and so grown up having afternoon tea in the Waldorf Astoria, and to see her lingering around the designer shops. Watching Archie enjoying his first real Chinese meal, and to see the concentration as he wrestled with his noodles was great to watch. 

The one thing that fascinated all our visitors is the building which is evolving before our eyes. It is The Shanghai Tower, and we have had the most perfect view as it has climbed into the sky. On its completion, next year, it will stand 608 metres, almost twice the height of the London Shard. It will be the 2nd highest building in the world, and it is a 10 minute walk from our door. I cannot wait to see it finished, and when people leave they want updates and photos of its progression. When we finally leave Shanghai we will be happy to have witnessed the growth of this amazing structure.

So today as I sit blogging, the skies have turned black, the wind has started to blow and I think the rain is not far away. There has been a 10c drop in temperature since yesterday and the forecast is for the cooling down to continue. Soon I will be packing away the summer dresses and sandals and having to think about wearing tights and cardis. 

But I will be able to look back at all the happy memories of our summer, and also I am happy to be looking forward to a trip home in a few weeks to help Daisy celebrate her 3rd birthday. A mere three weeks after arriving back in Shanghai I will once again be jumping on a plane to be home in time for Christmas.

LIFE IS GOOD..............................................

CURRY NIGHT

Over the years of living in different countries, enjoying different cultures, one thing that never fails to surprise me is how easily you can forget what's outside the window and feel as if you are at home.

This happened last night. What do Scots like to eat on a Saturday night? Amongst other things a curry is always popular. So an afternoon of toasting and grinding spices, all brought back from Calcutta by my husband earlier in the week, of peeling prawns, chopping onions, making pastes and sauces and included in all this, my husband was my student in the art of curry making. Not that I'm an expert, but the ability to read and follow a recipe seems to make me the best teacher he can find.

Surprisingly enough it all went very smoothly. I was patient, well pretty much, he took instruction, well pretty much, and we ended the afternoon still on speaking terms. He did however find it all very exhausting and I was thinking he might end up asleep before we had the chance to sample our efforts.

Okay, curry cooked, now into the mixture friends to share the dishes prepared. Good friends, who know I can cook, so if it was all to go wrong I knew they would come back. Lol.  Have to add, friends are Scottish, so also enjoy a good curry night. Let's hope this would turn out to be a "good curry night".

On offer was a prawn, a lamb and chicken dish. Rice of course, and a curry wouldn't be a curry without naan bread, samosas and poppadoms. Have to confess a trip to a local Curry restaurant put the naan and poppadoms on the table. My friend arrived with her homemade mango chutney, onion relish and tomato relish. A dish of dahl to go with it all and we were ready to go, but not before we relaxed over a nice cold G&T, as is fitting of an Indian evening!

My main concern was that the spices had seemed a bit more powerful my existing ones, but I needn't have worried. Yes, it was hot, but not unbearably. It was, thankfully very tasty, although I think a mushroom dish, which had contained 15 different ingredients was probably a bit labour intensive for the result. It tasted good, but not sure it was worth the huge effort my husband put into it. I think I can safely say we all enjoyed it  A nice bottle or three of Gewurtztraminer was the perfect accompaniment , always a favourite with spicy foods, works really well.

We finished off with some Indian sweets, and a plate of fresh fruit.

Recipe for a good night, very simple, good friends, good food and some good wine, never fails and thankfully on this occasion it didn't let me down.

Exhausted but happy we fell into bed, happy in the knowledge that however far away we are from family and friends, there is always someone who comes into your life and it's as if you have known them forever. Scotland was alive and well around our dining table last night, and it will be again I'm sure.

NOT WHAT it SEEMS

On a trip to M&S in Shanghai this morning I was excited to see a packet of mini jaffa cakes with a claim on the packet of only 125 calories.   " Guilt free snacking," it claimed.
When you are away from home a visit to somewhere familiar from time to time is good. A tempting offer like this on one of my favourite sweet snacks was going to make this a great day. Price? Immaterial I now had a deep need to enjoy a jaffa treat.

As soon as I arrived home I switched on the coffee machine before even unpacking. I put the shopping away and reached for the bag of jaffas which were going to make today a real treat. Then I saw it, on the top of what was a small bag, a saying which made my heart drop. "Contains 5 packets"!! WHAT......

How small was this treat going to be?

I ripped it open and out fell 5 smaller bags, I ripped one open and out fell 5 very small, I hesitate to call the jaffa cakes, onto the worktop. Not only were they small they were not in the best condition. the chocolate had "bloomed" and had a white tinge to it and the sponge was crumbling in places.

So what had started off as a tempting treat was looking more and more disappointing by the second. When I first saw the small packets I was debating with myself whether, for one time only, I was prepared to blow 525 calories eating the whole packet! On seeing the contents of the packet I soon decided they didn't look worth it.

So last step, the taste test. 

This only affirmed that one packet was more than enough. No nice jammy centre, instead a thin watery layer of orang flavour. No nice soft cakey bottom, instead a crumbly concoction, and the chocolate, well I'm not even going there. 

Saddened by my disappointment, and having eaten one packet, I put the rest away in the cupboard. Maybe one day I will reach for them, but not while the disappointment is still strong in my memory.

One of the nasty "treats" sitting beside a coffee spoon. So now you can see why I was not a happy bunny. lol.

Seriously though, maybe my expectations were too high, I mean how good can 125 calories taste in biscuit form? Maybe I was just too desperate for a taste of home. I should have known. Next time I'll stick to the full calorie McVitie Jaffa Cake which I know and love. Sorry M&S this time you lose out.

A TRIP to TEA GARDENS in YUNNAN

Have been so lucky to have an amazing trip to Yunnan to visit, amongst other things, a Tea garden. After 2 flights, one 3 hour and the other a one hour flight, we were picked up in jeeps and started a 5 hour journey to Cangyuan which is a Wa autonomous area, the Wa being an ancient Chinese tribe. It is situated next to the Myanmar border. We were extremely lucky to be able to go to the border and walk across the no man's land between China and Myanmar. We were lucky to have been introduced to a lady who worked as a border official and she escorted us there.

 The journey was challenging especially once it turned dark. But we did arrive safely to a very warm welcome. Hotel was very nice, new, huge and basically empty of people. We were also to discover hot water was not always on tap as we have become used to, and that the Chinese favour very hard beds!

Next morning we started our journey, again not an easy journey to reach the tea garden. At one point very close to the final destination we were told we had to walk the next bit. So off we went up a fairly steep and very muddy hill only to find jeeps waiting at the top. The reason for the hike? Well apparently the people of this area believe people should connect with the land to have a real experience. I love these traditions, or beliefs as they are in this part of the world. 

The scenery was amazing. Tea plants growing all over the terraced hillsides, but there was also tobacco plants, sugar cane and along the roadsides pomegranate trees and pumpkin plants. Not a spare piece of land, every piece was cultivated.

On arriving at the gardens we were of course welcomed with cups of tea. Not the cups we are used to but tiny cups all prepared by 2 young Wa girls resplendent in their traditional costumes. 

A walk around the gardens and even an opportunity to pick some leaves made us very happy. It was such an honour to be able to do this. The hard conditions made me realise that I should never complain about the price of my cuppa!

Conditions here for the workers are very good. Twinings in conjunction with Save the Children have been investing in a school and a centre for the people. It includes recreational areas and also a medical centre with a birthing facility. It was really very impressive, and the people are very happy with this facility. It is now being used as a model for the area. 

We were then treated to a delicious lunch. Simple honest food, fresh and very local. I swear I heard the chickens squeal prior to our lunch! This was foraging at it's best, and it tasted oh so good as we squatted down on low stools to enjoy what was put before us.

I was even lucky enough to get a behind the scenes look at the kitchens. All food was cooked in a home kitchen, these were not restaurants as we know them. Conditions were challenging, not great, unlike the food that came out of them.

This was a trip I will remember for a long time.

My morning cuppa has a greater meaning now. A dunk of a tea bag into a mug a thing of the past, for now at least. I will savour the leaves, allow them to brew and drink it throughout the day. 

Maybe, well no I definitely have way too many gadgets in my kitchen, and I produce food no better than I ate on this trip. Perhaps it's time to say goodbye to a few of them. 

This was an amazing trip and I feel very privileged to have been able to visit and eat and drink with these people. I look forward to a return visit from them when hopefully I can repay their kindness and hospitality. Truly a trip I will never forget.

GALA DAY BAG SHANGHAI STYLE

Some of you will get this, mostly the Scots amongst you, to others it will be a complete mystery, but here goes anyway, stick with me......

Last week we were at my husband's company outing, or "trip" as it was known to me as a child. Every year we would be taken, usually to the seaside by the company your father, or mother, worked for. There would also be the Sunday school "trip" and if you were lucky maybe one or two others thanks to generous relations or friends. We also had gala days. A big day for small towns when everyone would be bought new clothes, families would get together and a fun time had by all.

One thing these two occasions had in common was the "bag". All the children were issued one, not sure why it was called a bag, as it was always a box! Inside would be a carton of juice, a packet of crisps, a chocolate snowball, some sweets and a scotch pie.  http://thecelticcook.blogspot.co.uk/search?q=scotch+pie to the uninitiated you can check it out. A strange mixture I know, but we all eagerly awaited it.

Fast forward to our Shanghai trip, complete with the aforementioned "bag" LoL

This time the destination Wuxi was a bit different, as it boasts an 88metre high Buddha. Quite a thing to see, and quite a trek to the top, as I can testify.

As we got into the car, not a bus, we've moved on a bit, my husband and I were handed a carrier bag each and told by our driver, Jack, to "eat". Was not prepared for the assortment of "goodies"inside. I say goodies with tongue in cheek as it really wasn't to our taste. Take  look at contents.

It contained a bag with 12 small rolls, a box of 8 cake slices, various packs of dried fruits, crisps, a yogurt drink, which after being in the car all day in 30c heat was not exactly enticing me, a cold coffee drink and a pack of what looked similar to the famous M&S Percy Pigs. But I should have guessed, we were in China and what lay inside was tiny little dried pork sausages. The smell................still haunting me, again pork in car, in heat, for a long time, not a great idea. Still the Chinese tucked into it all, more accustomed to these delicacies than we are.

It made me think, not for the first time on my travels, that basically things are much the same the world over. People enjoy doing the same things, maybe what we eat differs, but we still all like a treat in whatever form it comes. Most importantly people enjoy having fun and spending time with friends and family.

The world should really be a more simpler place!

WET MARKET

My local wet market is a wonderful place for buying all my fruit and vegetables. This week everything just looked so tempting. Everything is so fresh and the vendor will always make sure I get the freshest. Must be a good customer having been going at least twice a week for the last 14 months.

So with this nice box of produce I started to plan meals and recipes. Peas and asparagus, easy call, a summer soup. I like to add a few handfuls of spinach at the end of cooking as this keeps a good green colour. Then I blend it all together. Sometimes I hold back a cup of the pea mixture to give a bot of texture, other tomes I strain it for a velvety smooth plate of yumminess. Depends on my mood, and on how much time I have. I would use only the stalks of asparagus and save the tips to add to peas and small onions, with a touch of the mint it would be a nice side dish.

As there was so many peas I made some pea and chickpea falafels. Always a favourite in this house, and with a yogurt and mint dip I was on my way to using up the contents of my shopping basket.

Beetroot would be pickled. 

With left over mint there was only one way to go and that was down the mojito route. A nice cocktail before eating. A perfect beginning for a tasty supper. 

I will continue my trips to the market. I enjoy wandering round, and engaging in basic conversation. It's amazing how attitudes change when I attempt my language skills. Beat a big supermarket shopping experience anytime.

Wonder what the next season will bring.

HAINAN CHICKEN

For someone who loves to cook, I find living here in Shanghai with all it's many great restaurants, and great social life, I cook less than I normally would. I am not complaining, but when I do cook I realise just how much I enjoy it. So when we were on holiday on Hainan Island a few weeks ago I enjoyed this chicken dish. On returning imagine my delight when browsing through a Ken Hom cook book, Exploring China, there was the very recipe.

Ingredients gathered I set to work. It is a simple but tasty recipe and one I will return to again and again.

The parts of the dish are all served separately and everyone puts it together to suit themselves. It's a bit like a deconstructed chicken soup.

RECIPE (serves 4)

1x1.5kg chicken, salt, 1.75 litres chicken stock, 6 slices fresh ginger, 6 whole spring onions, 1/2 tsp ground black pepper,  1tbsp oil, 2tbsp finely chopped garlic, 400mls long grain rice, measured in a jug.

Rub chicken all over with salt and put into pot and cover with stock, add more water if necessary. Bring to a boil. Add ginger, spring onions and pepper, cover tightly and turn down and simmer for 30 mins. turn off heat and leave for 1 hour.

Remove chicken and allow to cool. Remove ginger and onions from stock and skim off any fat. Measure out 900mls of stock and set aside. Reserve the rest of the stock..

Heat large frying pan. When hot add the oil and add the garlic and 1tsp of salt, stir  then add rice and stir for 2 mins. Now add the 900mls of stock and boil until most of stock has evaporated. Cover tightly and cook at very low temp for 15 mins. Remove and let rest before serving.  

The dish is served with garnish and dipping sauces. Again served alongside the chicken and rice to be added as required. These are very simple and really add to the flavour.

GARNISH

1 large cucumber, 225g tomatoes, 2 spring onions.

Peel and remove seeds from cucumber. Slice. Slice tomatoes and chop spring onions and mix together.

SAUCES

GINGER and SPRING ONION.  4 tbsp finely chopped sprong onion, white part only, 2tsp finely chopped ginger, 1tsp salt 2tbsp oil.

Mix together in a heatproof bowl. Heat the oil in a pan and when it is hot pour over ingredients.

CHILLI SESAME DRESSING. 2 fresh red chillies, deseeded and finely chopped, 2 tbsp sesame oil, 1 tsp sugar, 1/4 tsp salt.

Combine altogether in a bowl.

Now you are ready to put everything on the table. 

Chop the chicken into pieces and arrange on a platter. Reheat remaining stock and put in a serving bowl and put salad and sauces into serving bowls. Give everyone a bowl and enjoy.

It is amazing how the simplest of foods always taste so good. Just takes good quality ingredients.

It was good to be back in the kitchen, and with the leftovers I just put some chicken, chopped smaller, some rice and the stock and we enjoyed a delicious bowl of chicken soup for supper the following night.